Val Thorens Snow Report: 28th Februrary 2014

Conditions on piste have generally been very good this week. The groomed runs are mostly gorgeous but the ungroomed ones can be quite tricky. By yesterday afternoon, the ungroomed runs had developed large fluffy moguls separated by hard scraped patches. Negotiating invisible bumps in the flat light was not very easy. The off-piste, however, was glorious yesterday, with 20cm of lovely soft powder snow.

The busy French holidays continue for a further two weeks. I’m glad to report there seem to have been fewer queues than in previous years, though yesterday morning there were vast queues at La Chaudanne while all the top lifts were closed for avalanche blasting. I made the mistake of returning to the Chaudanne at around 10am, before the top lifts had reopened, and had to queue for a frustrating 20 minutes, gnashing my teeth while I imagined all the lovely fresh powder being ripped up by other skiers. Next time the top lifts are delayed for avalanche blasting, I’ll remember to stay on the highest open chairlift, normally the Dent de Burgin chairlift, or to descend into Mottaret where the queues were much shorter.

With a bit of local knowledge, you really can avoid the queues in even the busiest week (see my top tips below). Earlier this week, in the height of high season, we managed an entirely queue-free morning’s ski by setting out early and choosing our itinerary carefully. This is how to do it.

Be on the very first Saulire Express (or Pas du Lac) lift at 9.00 sharp. And, yes, it is worth making the effort to be up early.

From the top of Saulire, take a first run down the red Saulire towards Courchevel. At this time, there are no Courchevel skiers on this run as our lifts arrive at the summit quicker. Make the most of this wonderful, long, freshly-groomed piste while it is still empty and you can carve right from one side to the other.

Hop up the Vizelle gondola, then ski the popular blue run Creux before it gets busy.

Then take the Marmottes chairlift, then the red run of the same name.

By now, the Saulire area is filling up with skiers, so take the Chanrossa chairlift towards Courchevel-Moriond (1650). This ski area is always less busy than Courchevel 1850’s ski area. I like to take the blue Montagnes Russes piste – this means roller coaster, and it’s easy to see why as you ski both up and down hill on it – followed by Gentianes or Grandes Bosses.

By now it’s time for a morning coffee, and my favourite place to stop is at the Fire and Ice bar at Hotel Portetta in Courchevel-Moriond. On sunny days, you can sit outside on cosy outdoor sofas, wrapped in fur rugs by a firepit, and on colder days, there is a lovely indoor lounge. They serve really good coffee and some of the best hot chocolates in the 3 Valleys at 5€ - a bit of a bargain in the Courchevel valley.

If there is a queue at the Ariondaz gondola, take the alternative Marquis draglift instead.

Spend the rest of the morning on the runs served by the queue-free Signal and Chapelets chairlifts. Remember to try out the Tetras red run which opened this winter.

To get back to Méribel, take the Aiguille du fruit then Marmottes chairlifts. If there are lots of skiers on Saulire, take one of the quieter runs back down into town, such as Mauduit. Et voila! A queue-free, crowd-free ski even during the dreaded Vacances Scolaires.

Here are some other top tips for queue-free skiing.

Ski when others don’t

Try to be on first lift at 9.00 sharp. If you arrive 15 minutes later and you’ll be stuck behind ski schools flooding onto the lifts. If you can get away first, you’ll arrive at all the subsequent lifts before any queues can build up.

Ski over lunchtime. The French are constitutionally-required to eat a two-hour, three-course lunch including wine, coffee and digestifs. This leaves us “anglo-saxons” free to enjoy much quieter slopes between 12.00 and 2.00.

Avoid the Chaudanne in the morning. If you are staying high up the resort, circumvent the queues at the main Chaudanne lift station by starting your day on the Adret or Morel lifts. If you are staying in the lower part of Méribel, why not jump on the free bus to Méribel Village and start and end your day in this quiet area instead?

Ski where others don’t

Avoid the main pistes and obvious routes between valleys. A quick study of the piste map will show you many quiet areas at the edges of the ski area. For example, Courchevel 1650, at the edge of the valley, is invariably quieter than Courchevel 1850. The slower Loze route over to Courchevel is quieter than the main Saulire route. The Raffort and Village runs below Méribel are never busy.

Ski black runs if you can

If you are an expert, capitalise on your skills by skiing black runs. Black runs are not only quieter; they often have better snow as they are less-used. For example, the black run Sanglier often is much easier to ski than the almost identical but more scraped Niverolle. The black run Tetras is rarely skied. The black Bosses must be the most underused run in Méribel.

Hire an instructor or guide

Jump the queues with a clear conscience and improve your skiing at the same time with a private instructor.

Get off-piste

Join the ESF or a go with a Mountain Guide for a day in the backcountry, well away from the crowds.

Get Cross (country)

If you really want to get away from it all, try cross-country skiing or snowshoeing. Both are wonderfully peaceful after the hurly-burly of the downhill pistes.

Two other suggestions

If you want to eat somewhere nice for lunch, book your restaurant in advance.

Remember that collisions become more frequent as the slopes become busier. You will reduce your chance of an injury by following the ten rules of the slopes – it’s amazing how many people don’t know them. If you are skiing with children or beginners, please make sure they know the rules too.